On the Road to Dharamsala

After staying two nights in the YMCA hostel in New Delhi, we began the last leg of our journey to Dharamsala at 6:00am, after a modest breakfast of hard boiled-eggs, jam, and toast. The drive would finally take us thirteen hours, three stops, and through three regions of India.

We began in the National Capital Region of India, or N.C.R., which is home to the nation’s capital, Delhi. Our observations led us to believe that this area is more densely populated than the neighboring region to the north, Punjab. For over an hour we drove through what seemed to be the city of Delhi, and only upon passing the gigantic and unsightly landfill on the outskirts did the walls of urban sprawl seem to shrink. Many students gazed out of their windows, contemplating their new surroundings while others, more concerned with reaching their destination, plugged into iPods and mp3 players, closed their eyes and let the miles pass them by. Still more played cards, or made new friends with their jeep’s driver.

Our first stop was at a roadside station that served chai and various Indian foods, produce, sodas and fruit drinks. While on the road we were split into five Toyota hatch-back sedans that in the states would be called cross-over vehicles. Once again together as a group at the fueling station we were able to discuss our observations. Generally, traffic was thought to be insane, pity was laid on the working children, and the many regarded as impoverished and crippled were regarded with sympathetic eye.

Our second stop was for lunch at a clean little place called the Water Lily, where we were served authentic Indian cuisine that mimics what most of us are used to in the States: saag paneer, tikka masala, lentils and curry, complete with healthy servings of Nan. Having just gotten over a minor bout of food poisoning myself, this meal was a welcome stimulant to my palette, and the best I’d had in three days. Other students agreed, and we filled our stomachs with firsts, and seconds.

Back on the road it took us just a couple of hours to reach the Punjab region, home of the ethnic Punjabi, as well as the religious Sihks, and many Hindus as well. From what we were able to observe, the Punjab region can be characterized by lush farmlands. It rained the entire three hours it took us to drive through the region. As the monsoon season is still going on (but soon to end) this was expected. Nevertheless it added an additionally nerve-racking component to the already harrowing driving experience. Between the green flora, the pouring rain, high speeds, and the five jeeps piled high with bags and people, we sort of felt like we were in a scene from Jurassic Park!

By the time we reached Himachal Pradesh I was ready to arrive. From what I heard though the students had plenty to occupy them on the way up and thought for the most part that the drive hadn’t felt as long as it was. Just as we entered the mountains south of Dharamsala, about 60 kilometers out, the rain broke and a rainbow hung in the sky for the rest of the drive.

It was actually uncanny, and a bit of a good omen that the rain bow held it’s position until the very moment before we pulled into the Sarah Institute. I’ve never been able to see the end of a rainbow so clearly, where the pot of gold is supposed to be, but on this occasion it was visible until we came within a hundred yards or so, and led us directly to Sarah. Myself, Renate, Jackie, and Tibetan coordinator Karma-La all laughed and mused at what we took to be a positive sign.

When we pulled into Sarah we were greeted by waves and smiling faces. Each of the Tibetan students held a piece of paper with the name of their American roommate on it, as well as a ceremonial Khata. A Khata is a thin white shawl that is placed over the head and draped around the neck of an honored person or guest, and is done so by the hosting person. It is a way to show gratitude and respect. Each of the Miami students was greeted in this traditional fashion. While the jeep drivers handled the luggage the eager students exchanged greetings and chatted excitedly with the people they will live with here for the next six weeks.

We were served dinner in the dining room on the first floor. Tibetan fair consisting of sautéed vegetables, bread, rice, and bananas. The students spent the rest of the evening conversing with their roommates and getting to know one another in their rooms. I went straight to bed.